Views: 222 Author: Tina Publish Time: 2026-01-07 Origin: Site
Content Menu
● Safety, Regulations, and Preparation
● Step‑by‑Step: Draining With a Sand Filter and Multiport Valve
>> Step 1: Shut Off Power and Inspect
>> Step 2: Attach the Backwash/Waste Hose
>> Step 3: Set the Valve to “Waste”
>> Step 4: Start the Pump and Monitor Flow
>> Step 5: Watch the Water Level in the Pool
● Draining With Other Filter Types (Cartridge and DE)
● Special Risks for Inground and Vinyl Pools
● Where to Send the Water Legally
● Restarting and Refilling After Draining
● OEM Pool Pump and Filter Solutions for Brands and Wholesalers
● FAQs About Draining a Pool With the Pump
>> 1. Is it safe to completely drain an inground pool using the pool pump?
>> 2. Where should I discharge pool water when using the “Waste” setting?
>> 3. Can I run the pump on “Backwash” instead of “Waste” to drain the pool?
>> 4. How far should I lower the water level during a partial drain?
>> 5. What happens if the pump sucks air while draining?
>> 6. Do I need to dechlorinate the water before draining?
Draining a swimming pool with the pool pump is mostly about three things: setting the valve correctly to “Waste” (or equivalent), choosing a safe discharge point, and carefully monitoring the water level so you do not damage the pool or the equipment. When done properly and under the right ground‑water and weather conditions, this method is fast, controlled, and convenient for most pool owners.[1][2][3]
Draining a pool is not always necessary and, if done at the wrong time, can severely damage an inground pool shell. In many cases, partial water replacement, chemical rebalancing, or flocculation can solve common water problems without fully draining the pool.[2][4][1]
- Inground pools can “pop” out of the ground if groundwater pressure is high and there is no water inside to counterbalance it.[3][2]
- Plaster, fiberglass, and vinyl surfaces can crack, wrinkle, or collapse if exposed to sun and heat for too long without water.[4][5]
- Local laws and environmental rules often restrict where chemically treated pool water can be discharged, especially in cities and coastal regions.[6][7]
Before moving any water, confirm that it is legal and safe to discharge your pool into your planned drainage point. Many municipalities prefer or require water to go to a sanitary sewer system, not directly into storm drains, ditches, or natural creeks.[8][9][6]
- Check local guidelines on discharging pool water, especially chlorine, pH, and salt limits, and dechlorinate if required using neutralizers or by letting chlorine dissipate.[10][6]
- Plan a discharge route that is downhill, away from the house foundation, and far from the pool shell so groundwater does not build up beneath the structure.[7][2]
- Never discharge to a septic system, and avoid causing erosion or flooding on neighboring properties.[9][6]
Using the existing circulation system is convenient, but you need the correct fittings and hoses to send the water safely to waste. Before you start, gather everything and test‑fit your hose to the waste port.[11][1]
- Pool pump in good working condition (single‑speed, dual‑speed, or variable‑speed) with an attached filter.
- Multiport valve or drain line on the filter with a “Waste,” “Backwash,” or “Drain” function, depending on your system.[12][1]
- Backwash / waste hose long enough to reach the chosen discharge area without kinks or sharp bends.[13][1]
- Basic tools: screwdriver or pliers (if your system uses drain plugs), hose clamps, and a test kit to verify chlorine and pH before draining.[12][6]
The most common method is to use the pool pump with a sand filter's multiport valve set to “Waste,” which bypasses the filter media and sends water straight out through the waste line.[1][12]
Always start by shutting off the pump at the timer and circuit breaker to avoid electrical hazards and valve damage.[12][1]
- Turn off the pump using the control panel or switch, then shut off power at the breaker for extra safety.
- Inspect the pump, filter, and multiport valve for cracks, loose unions, or leaks that could worsen when running water to waste.[1][12]
The waste port on the filter or valve must be securely connected to a hose to carry water to your planned discharge area.[14][1]
- Slide the backwash hose over the waste outlet and tighten with a clamp to avoid blow‑offs when the pump starts.
- Lay the hose as straight as possible, leading downhill to your sewer cleanout, lawn (if permitted), or other approved drainage point.[6][7]
The multiport valve must be in the correct position before you turn on the pump.[12][1]
- Press down on the multiport valve handle, then rotate it clockwise to “Waste” (or “Drain” if that is your label).[1][12]
- Make sure the pump is still off while you move the handle, to protect the valve's internal gasket from damage.[12][1]
Once everything is connected and set, you can start the pump and begin draining the pool.[13][1]
- Restore power and turn on the pump; check that water flows strongly out of the waste hose and not from any leaks around unions or the valve.
- Stay in the equipment area for the first several minutes to confirm stable flow and that the hose is not whipping or moving dangerously.[13][1]
Draining with the pool pump is efficient, so the water level will drop faster than many people expect.[13][1]
- Mark your target water level (for partial drains) on the tile or liner and check it at least every 10–15 minutes at the start and then more frequently as you approach the target.[14][4]
- Never leave the system running unattended for long periods; if the pump starts sucking air, immediately turn it off to prevent damage.[14][1]
Not all systems have a standard multiport valve, but most still provide a way to send water to waste using the pump.[1][12]
- Cartridge filter systems may have a drain plug at the bottom of the filter or a three‑way valve that can be turned to send water to waste before the cartridges.[12]
- DE filters often use the same multiport “Waste” setting as sand filters, but you may see short bursts of DE powder during the first seconds of flow.[1][12]
If your filter only has a single “Filter” position and no built‑in drain line, you may need to add a tee and valve on the return line or use a separate submersible pump instead of the main circulation pump.[14][1]
Inground concrete, fiberglass, and vinyl pools can be damaged if drained at the wrong time or too quickly, especially in areas with high water tables or heavy clay soil.[2][3]
- Hydrostatic pressure from groundwater can lift or crack an empty pool shell (“pool pop”), particularly after heavy rain or in low‑lying areas.[15][2]
- Vinyl liners can shrink, wrinkle, or pull off the walls when water is removed, making reinstallation expensive and difficult.[5][4]
To reduce risk, drain only in dry weather, use hydrostatic relief plugs where present, and avoid leaving the pool empty any longer than necessary.[3][2]
Improper discharge can pollute streams and violate local codes, so always confirm approved options before you begin.[8][6]
- Many regions require that pool and spa water be drained into a sanitary sewer line or authorized connection after dechlorination and pH adjustment.[9][6]
- If sanitary sewer access is not available, some jurisdictions allow discharge to lawns or storm drains only when chlorine has fully dissipated and flow is slow enough to prevent erosion or flooding.[6][8]
Look up the rules for your city or county, and follow any limits on flow rate, timing (for example, daytime business hours), and chemical concentrations.[10][6]
Once you reach your target level or finish repairs, you must reset the valve and restart filtration safely.[12][1]
- Turn off the pump, rotate the multiport valve back to “Filter,” and remove or coil the waste hose so no one trips over it.[12]
- Begin refilling the pool with clean water, then restart the pump after the water is above the skimmer openings, checking for leaks and normal pressure.[3][1]
After refilling, balance pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, and sanitizer levels before swimming, and recheck them over the next 24–48 hours as the new water mixes.[14][1]
For pool businesses, using reliable OEM pumps and filtration systems makes draining, backwashing, and daily operation simpler and safer for end users.
- Professional OEM manufacturers in China supply high‑grade sand filters, cartridge filters, DE filters, pool pumps, LED pool lights, and accessories produced with smart machinery and strict quality control for global brands.
- Private‑label and OEM options allow overseas brands, wholesalers, and pool equipment producers to customize designs, logos, fittings, and packaging while relying on proven hydraulic performance and durability.
Embedding your own product photos (sand filters with multiport valves, energy‑efficient pumps, LED lights) and operation videos under each technical section can both educate pool owners and promote your OEM product lines.
Draining a swimming pool with the pool pump is an efficient method when you use the “Waste” or drain setting, a secure discharge hose, and a carefully chosen drainage point that complies with local regulations. Always consider groundwater conditions, pool type, and structural risks, and avoid fully draining delicate inground or vinyl pools without expert guidance or hydrostatic protection. With a clear step‑by‑step process and reliable OEM pumps and filters, pool owners and service professionals can manage water levels safely while protecting both equipment and the environment.[2][6][3][1][12]
Completely draining an inground pool is risky because groundwater pressure can push the empty shell upward or crack it, especially after rain or in high‑water‑table areas. Many experts recommend partial drains only or using hydrostatic relief plugs and professional supervision if a full drain is absolutely necessary.[4][2][3]
Most municipalities prefer pool water to go into the sanitary sewer system or another approved disposal location after dechlorination and pH adjustment. Direct discharge into storm drains, ditches, or natural waterways is often restricted or prohibited because chlorinated water can harm aquatic life.[8][9][6]
Both “Backwash” and “Waste” send water out of the pool, but “Backwash” reverses flow through the filter media and is meant for short cleaning cycles, not large‑volume draining. For serious water removal, “Waste” (or a dedicated drain line) is usually the recommended setting because it bypasses the media and is easier on the filter.[1][12]
For issues like high cyanuric acid or dissolved solids, many pool professionals drain and refill one‑third to one‑half of the pool volume at a time rather than fully emptying it. This reduces structural risk and allows you to adjust chemistry gradually while still significantly improving water quality.[4][14][1]
If the water level drops below the skimmer or main drain, the pump can start drawing air, causing loss of prime, noisy cavitation, and potential damage to the pump seal or impeller. If this happens, shut off the pump immediately, raise the water level (or close the skimmer using a valve or plate), and reprime before restarting.[13][1]
Many local codes require that pool water be dechlorinated and meet specific limits for chlorine, pH, and sometimes salt or metals before discharge. You can let chlorine dissipate naturally over several days or use a neutralizer, but always confirm compliance with your city or utility provider.[10][6][8]
[1](https://blog.royalswimmingpools.com/how-to-drain-a-pool-step-by-step-guide)
[2](https://teampoolworks.com/blog/hydrostatic-pressure-inground-pool/)
[3](https://www.thisoldhouse.com/pools/how-to-drain-a-pool)
[4](https://pooloperationmanagement.com/draining-a-pool-in-the-fall-what-pool-pros-recommend/)
[5](https://www.jdesigns.com/blog/should-i-drain-my-pool)
[6](https://your.kingcounty.gov/dnrp/library/water-and-land/stormwater/stormwater-pollution-prevention-manual/A33_Aug16.pdf)
[7](https://integritypools.org/how-to-safely-drain-your-pool)
[8](https://www.cleancreeks.org/292/Draining-Pools-Spas-and-Fountains)
[9](https://your.kingcounty.gov/dnrp/library/water-and-land/stormwater/stormwater-pollution-prevention-manual/R7_Jan09.pdf)
[10](https://www.epa.gov/system/files/documents/2023-01/bmp-educating-residents-on-safely-discharging-chemically-treated-water.pdf)
[11](https://www.facebook.com/swimuniversity/videos/how-to-drain-water-out-of-your-pool-fast/3776193769324865/)
[12](https://pinchapenny.com/pool-life/how-to-drain-a-pool)
[13](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztRnO9Qqsg0)
[14](https://pool.dreametech.com/blogs/blog/how-to-drain-a-pool-step-by-step-guide-for-beginners)
[15](https://www.aquamagazine.com/home/article/15119622/pressure-points)
[16](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8lCSLRweE0)
[17](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSVbr-Ay-aA)
[18](https://www.reddit.com/r/pools/comments/13r62oy/what_is_a_good_way_to_drain_and_in_ground_pool/)
[19](https://app.leg.wa.gov/wac/default.aspx?cite=246-260-031)
[20](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5H3RdYtf2Q)
